BEYOND THE STIGMA OF JEONNONG-DONG: THE SEOUL'S MOST MISUNDERSTOOD NEIGHBORHOOD
Hello, citizens! Today, I'm here to introduce you the Jeonnong-dong neighborhood, one of the few areas in Seoul with a relevance that has changed as dramatically as a rollercoaster ride. Initially, it was a land of agricultural importance, but it quickly transformed into the first focal point of the city's railway progress. This is the site of the Cheongnyangni Station, which connects Seoul with the eastern part of the country, and the first line of Seoul's subway system.
During the 1960s and 70s, this area was an epicenter of commerce until the city's rapid growth gradually reduce its importance, making it a neighborhood seemingly frozen in time. In the last decade, the government has invested significant efforts in modernizing the sector, yet its streets still retain an aura of authenticity.
The name of the neighborhood stems from the Joseon Dynasty, when these lands were designated for the King’s personal cultivation and named "Jeonnong" (전농). The grains produced here were sent to Jongmyo Shrine to be used in ancestral rites. After the Japanese occupation, the Japanese renamed this sector Jeonong-jeong within Gyeongseong-bu (the old name for Seoul). However, after liberation in 1945, the neighborhood was annexed to Dongdaemun and its name was changed to the current Jeonnong-dong.
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| Cheongnyangni station in 1970 |
Cheongnyangni Station, the heart of Jeonnong-dong
The story of Jeonnong-dong is, in many ways, the very history of South Korea's transportation. The first urban railway line departed from Cheongnyangni Station in 1974, which soon evolved into the current Seoul Subway Line 1. Even now, Cheongnyangni Station is a mega transfer station with six lines passing through it: Subway Line 1, Suin-Bundang Line, Gyeongwon Line, Gyeongchun Line, Gyeongui-Jungang Line, Jungang Line, and the KTX Gangneung Line.
According to records, the first tram began operating in the neighborhood in 1899. Passengers would get off at Cheongnyangni and take the tram to access the city wall. After the liberation from the Japanese in 1945, trams lost competitiveness with the arrival of buses and cars. In 1966, Mayor Kim Hyun-Ok championed the expansion of the city's vehicular and railway systems, and consequently, on November 30, 1968, the Cheongnyangni tram ceased operations.
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| First tram in Seoul |
Following the tram's closure, the first underground subway line was inaugurated on August 15, 1974, with the goal of connecting Cheongnyangni Station with Seoul Station. This line is now the longest in the city, connecting the city of Suwon in the south and Uijeongbu in the north within a single region. The creation of this line had a huge impact on the country's economy and industry. Property prices around the subway stations skyrocketed, and the city’s structure and hierarchy were reorganized.
In the city's 1986 development plan, Jeonnong-dong was highlighted as a key sector for development along with Yeongdeungpo, Sinchon, and Miari.
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| Smalls pocket meeting points are currently scattered throughout the neighborhood |
Soon, Jeonnong-dong became a trendy spot. Following the construction of the Lotte Department Store—or "the clock tower," as it was known in 1994—the neighborhood filled with fast-food restaurants like KFC and Burger King. The area was a source of pride, representing the first modern urban landscape for those arriving in Seoul by train from the outskirts. The station plaza also became a place for student gatherings, large demonstrations, and protests.
At the time of the visit, the plaza no longer seems to be a gathering point for young people, but rather a passageway or connection point between the station and nearby bus and subway lines. Some groups of seniors gather to chat and promote religion. However, the department store remains quite busy as it has a direct connection to the station's interior, generating a constant flow of travelers.
Jeonnong-dong, a Neighborhood full of controversy
Cheongnyangni 588: Seoul's largest red-light district
One of the reasons why the development of Jeonnong-dong was postponed until recently was the various controversies that began to emerge after its peak in popularity. One of them was the rise and expansion of one of the city's largest red-light districts, known as "Cheongnyangni 588."
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| Cheongnyangni 588 by google map archives |
As occurred in many major world capitals in the 19th century, the convergence of socioeconomic factors around Cheongnyangni Station provided the perfect environment for the emergence of a red-light district. Moreover, during the Korean War, the station served as a transport center for South Korean troops, attracting women who "catered" to the soldiers. After the war ended, the area's economic boom, coupled with the dismantling of the red-light district in Seodaemun, led to the number of brothels serving lonely men traveling long distances exceeding 200.
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| Cheongnyangni 588 in Febreruary, 1983 |
The Cheongnyangni 588 red-light district (the origin of its name is unknown) consisted of a consecutive row of glass storefronts where women were displayed as if they were mannequins or 'Barbies in a box'. The displays were wide on the sides but narrow at the back and had a small door leading to a rear section with rooms on both sides called "beehives." Some middle-aged women would recruit single men in the station plaza to lure them into the businesses. Although people knew what was happening, they turned a blind eye, allowing the district to grow with considerable freedom.
The demolition of the district occurred in 2004 to make way for the "Lotte Castle Sky-L65" project. This is a 4-tower, 65-story mixed-use building that stands as a landmark in the northeast of Seoul. However, the stigma has been so significant that it has affected apartment prices, leading the Dongdaemun City Hall to push for changing the neighborhood's name to "Cheongnyang-dong" to shed its "red-light district" image.
Although there are currently no remnants of the red-light district in the neighborhood, it is common to see a look of disgust on people's faces when the sector is named. It is often seen as a dangerous neighborhood, full of contentious seniors or individuals with mental illnesses. In the alleys surrounding Jeonnong-dong, there are still a few small saunas where the elderly gather to chat or drink soju.
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| Small saunas can still be found scattered around the station. |
An overdue renovation
Several chaebol groups (large industrial conglomerates) attempted to get involved in the area's development but without much success. The first was Hanhwa in 1993, which planned to convert the plaza in front of the station into a shopping mall but faced stiff opposition from the city council and local merchants. By 1997, renovation plans for the area were halted due to the IMF financial crisis.
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| On the way to Seoul University, there is a row of trendy shops for both young people and elderly, as well as traditional and young style restaurants. This shows the generational difference in the neighborhood. |
The scarcity of resources and labor extended into the early millennium, prioritizing other important projects like the construction of the KTX at Seoul Station. Renovation projects restarted in 2004 but suffered many delays due to the simultaneous construction of the double-track electrification projects for the Gyeongchun and Jungang Lines. The postponements, which extended for over 30 years, resulted in unexpected "abandonment" by the local government and rejection from citizens in other Seoul neighborhoods.
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| In the back, The Sky Castle is being built |
Since August 2010, the renovation of the station and its adjacent tracks began, and the Sky Castle project was built in an attempt to renew its image. For the coming years, the construction of 4 new lines is expected to increase the sector's attractiveness: the Great Train Express (GTX-B) line (from Songdo to Maseok); the GTX-C line (from Deokjeong to Suwon); the Myeonmok line (from Cheongnyangni to Sinnae-dong); and the Gangbuk Cross-sectional line (from Cheongnyangni to Mokdong).
The University of Seoul, the brain on Jeonnong-dong
In the center of Jeonnong-dong is the University of Seoul (서울시립대학교), the only point in the neighborhood where citizens can gather, enjoy nature, and get away from the hustle and bustle of the trains. This university began as a public agricultural school in 1918 under the supervision of the Governor-General of Korea and obtained its name, the Metropolitan University of Seoul, in 1973.
Initially, the university only had four departments: horticulture, veterinary medicine, agricultural engineering, and sericulture. However, the university is currently renowned for its programs in urban planning, transportation, civil engineering, and the environment. It is recognized for its participation in various urban and architectural development projects in the city.
Seoul's universities usually do not have modern buildings or grand architectural designs; however, the University of Seoul has become a reference point. Although it is not a large campus compared to other public universities, it is always undergoing constant change and renovation of its buildings.
One of the most emblematic buildings is the Faculty of Law and Sports. It is a large, glass-fronted building without a main entrance, which breaks spatial barriers while allowing fluid communication between the interior and exterior through a spacious plaza. The wooden platform in this plaza, conceived as a communication space, is now used as a rest area for both students and local residents. This modern building creates an interesting contrast with an adjoining brick building where art or scientific exhibitions are now held. This type of contrast can be appreciated throughout the Metropolitan University of Seoul campus.
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| Future Convergence Building |
Another outstanding building is the recently inaugurated "Future Convergence Building," whose design is similar to the Amore Pacific building in Samgakji. The avant-garde design showcases the university's new vision in its centennial year, in addition to providing more open public spaces for the local community. This building is definitely the new face of the university and has recovered lost meeting spaces within the campus.
Baebongsan, the lungs of Jeonnong-dong
Behind the Metropolitan University of Seoul, you can walk to Baebongsan (배봉산). It is a small, nature-filled mountain with a trail of approximately 9 km. Originally, the mountain reached the Dapsimni neighborhood, but urban development cut it into three parts.
In the past, many royal tombs were located there before being relocated, which is why people used to bow to the mountain when passing by. It is a beautiful route surrounded by trees and perfect for running. Along the 9 km, there are badminton courts, a rabbit farm, climbing walls, an artificial waterfall, reading spaces, outdoor gyms, and some stone markers indicating the locations of the ancient tombs of the kings. There are also some exhibited remains of an old fortress that surrounded the mountain.
Urban Development in Jeonnong-dong
The neighborhood is mainly made up of single-family homes, low-rise buildings with one-room flats for students, some run-down hanok (traditional Korean houses), the "Remian Class T" apartment complex, some modern commercial premises and traditional Korean food establishments, and mixed-use premises.
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The visual horizon consists of low-rise buildings with student “one rooms” and traditional single-family homes. |
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In the neighborhood, you can find these types of old hanoks that have been slightly modified. |
The houses were built and improved over time, which resulted in the creation of narrow alleys and intersections. The population is mostly University of Seoul students and elderly residents, creating a stark contrast between the new and the old in the neighborhood.
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| There are also newer single-family homes. |
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| The diversity of the houses creates intricate alleyways. |
Some areas and facilities show more neglect than others, especially those near the train station. The neighborhood also has a small, old market where people gather and buy groceries.
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| Local market entrance |
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Around the market there are many street vendors, traditional restaurants, and various shops that cater to the needs of the elderly. |
Healing urban scars beyond the surface
The history of Jeonnong-dong serves as a powerful reminder that a city is more than just its infrastructure; it is a living hub of memories, both glorious and painful. As we have seen, historical circumstances can leave deep scars on a neighborhood’s reputation, often overshadowing its immense potential as a socio-economic and cultural center and hiding a social problem is not the same as solving it.
For decades, the shadow of the red-light district stunted the growth of a sector that is the gateway to eastern Korea. Today, the arrival of luxury skyscrapers like Lotte Castle Sky-L65 attempts to "sanitize" the area’s image. But urban revitalization should not be about erasing the past to comfort the present. When we demolish a neighborhood to cover its history, we risk displacing the very soul of the community.
This struggle is not unique to Seoul. A striking comparison can be found in King’s Cross, London. Much like Jeonnong-dong, King’s Cross was once a massive industrial and transportation hub that fell into extreme decay. By the 1980s and 90s, it had become notorious for crime, poverty, and a visible red-light district.
Instead of purely "erasing" its gritty history with generic glass boxes, London opted for a mix of heritage preservation and social integration. They repurposed old Victorian industrial buildings (like the Coal Drops Yard) into vibrant public spaces. While gentrification remains a challenge there, the lesson is clear: true revitalization happens when you honor the neighborhood's dynamics.
Analizing the Jeonnong-dong development I ask myself: Are we building a neighborhood for the people who are already there, or are we just trying to make the past invisible?
Inclusive urbanism doesn't mean keeping the "bad," but rather healing the wounds through education, public space, and a respect for the local rhythm. Only then can Cheongnyangni station stop being a place people merely "pass through" and become a place where they truly want to stay. What do you think?
👉I recommend checking out this blog post to see more pictures of Cheongnyangni 588 before it was demolished.
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