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Geo Urbanism

GKS student

Amid South Korea’s booming influencer wave, one account stands out from the rest. Belén, a 29-year-old Chilean who graduated with a double major in Archaeology and Global Studies from Busan University, started a project to share Korean culture on social media. Her account was warmly received, quickly building a community of followers eager to dive deeper into Korea’s history and culture. Although she isn’t living in South Korea at the moment, her bond with Asian culture remains strong—not just through her content, but in her plans for the future.

Belén’s passion for Asian culture began in her teens through cinema, which inspired her to study Korean and Chinese back home in Chile. She originally pursued Political Science at the Catholic University of Chile before stepping away to focus entirely on learning Asian languages. That leap of faith led her to apply for the GKS scholarship, bringing her to South Korea in 2021 to start her university studies.

As a follower of her project, I invited her for this interview to learn about ancient Korean civilizations and how that rich past continues to shape modern South Korea’s urban landscape, economy, and culture.


What made you choose Korean archaeology?

Honestly, applying for archaeology was something I thought through very carefully. I was super passionate about Korea and really wanted to understand the country through its culture. I had already consumed a ton of movies, dramas, and literature—I’d even started getting into Korean poetry. I felt I wanted to take a different path from the usual "Korean Studies" or language route that most people pick. I wanted to understand it from an archaeological and historical perspective.

Korean history is fascinating because it goes back thousands of years, but archaeology gave me the chance to do field work and analyze actual artifacts, from the oldest to the most recent. For me, that sheer curiosity mattered more than career stability or financial outlook. I did ask myself, "Is this going to be practical if I go back to Chile?" I didn't overthink it at the time, but I knew that majoring in something so deeply focused on the country itself would be a huge plus. You don't just learn archaeology—you learn the history, the culture, everything. It felt like a solid foundation.

Once I got to Korea, I realized I could double major. Since I hadn't completely dropped the idea of studying international business, I decided to do it as well, tailoring it toward modern and pre-modern Korean studies. It turned out to be a great decision—it was the only program at Busan University taught fully in English with an international faculty.


Compared to other ancient civilizations in larger regions, why Korea?

I actually started studying Chinese at university in Chile. Back then, everyone said Chinese was the language of the future, and I’ve always loved languages. So I started learning Chinese and fell in love with it—even more than Korean at first—because of the characters and the history. My teachers at the Confucius Institute were native Chinese speakers, and the whole experience was amazing because it was so new to me. I was doing really well, but I had to pause for work reasons, which I regret now. After that, I shifted my focus entirely to Korean.

The thing is, back in school in Chile, we weren't taught a curriculum about China or Asia. Whatever I learned about the culture came through the language classes at the Confucius Institute, which is funded by the Chinese government, so they use the same soft power approach Korea uses. What you learn from a government-run institute with specific ideals is very different from what you learn independently. Later, when I worked at an organization focused on China, I coordinated a diploma program in Chinese studies. I learned so much more about Chinese history there because I had to interview professors and scholars.

Through that, I realized there were aspects I didn't fully align with—like the political system, the heavy focus on Sinocentrism (Hanism), and various human rights and women's rights issues that are important to me but felt underdeveloped there. That cooled my interest a bit. I’m quite critical, and I wasn't sure I wanted to live in China long-term. To this day, I haven't been to China, though I'd still love to visit for the archaeology.

That’s why I leaned more toward Korea. Fortunately, during my Korean studies, I had a professor who had lived and studied in Beijing. He taught us Chinese and Central Asian archaeology, which allowed me to reconnect with China—specifically through its archaeological and cultural side.


Have you participated in any archaeological projects in Korea?

Undergraduate students don't get too many field opportunities, but I did get to work on creating 2D technical drawings of artifacts from the Three Kingdoms period—measuring them, documenting their features, and turning them into 3D digital models. I spent about a full year doing that kind of work.

As for field excavations, I actually managed to secure the last remaining spot to work on the excavation site at Gyeongbokgung Palace! On top of that, I took a private course in Gyeongju on my own initiative to learn how to restore ancient Korean ceramics and roof tiles.


In your opinion, what is South Korea’s most important architectural or cultural treasure?

The things I love most—mainly for their philosophical meaning and historical context—are the ceramics. I’m fascinated by ritual objects, like the amphorae used to hold offerings or food placed inside tombs alongside the deceased.

There’s a very famous type of pottery from the Three Kingdoms period called Gobe. It’s a stem bowl used for ritual ceremonies, and each of the three kingdoms had its own distinct design. For example, pottery from the Gaya Confederacy featured flame-shaped or triangular cutouts, while others had three-tiered designs. They’re very recognizable.

Another favorite of mine is Korean roof tiles. The final tile at the edge of the roof, called "Sumaksae", features a unique design that evolved over time. Tiles from the Silla Kingdom are famous for their lotus flower motifs; you can actually tell whether a tile is from an early or late period just by counting the lotus petals, the dots at the center, or looking at how rounded or slender the petals are. It’s an amazing way to see artistic evolution firsthand.


What makes Korean ceramics unique? Are there specific towns or regions known for them?

During the Korean Bronze Age, there was a specific pottery technique where a slower, lower-heat firing process gave the clay a distinct reddish hue. Potters back then added textures using straw brushes—a technique very similar to ancient Japanese pottery, which highlights the early cultural exchange between the two regions.

Later, between the Goryeo and Joseon periods, another technique emerged involving copper-underglaze painting in specialized kilns, marking a highly advanced era for Korean pottery. Today, if you’re looking for regions famous for ceramics, I’d highlight Jeollanam-do and, over in the southwest, Chungcheongnam-do.


Could you recommend five archaeological sites in South Korea that everyone should visit?

Because of its sheer historical diversity across different periods, besides the National Museum of Korea, I’d definitely recommend the Gimhae National Museum near Busan. It’s incredible because that region was the heart of the Gaya Confederacy. They have artifacts ranging from the Paleolithic era onward—tons of ancient jewelry and gemstones.

The burial mounds at Daeryungwon Ancient Tomb Park in Gyeongju are another absolute must-see. While in Gyeongju, you should also visit Bulguksa Temple and the Seokguram Grotto. The stone engineering used for Seokguram at the time is mind-blowing. People tried to loot and strip the temple during foreign occupations and the colonial era, but luckily it was preserved, which is rare in Korea.

In Seoul and Suwon, the royal fortresses and palace complexes are well worth exploring. Busan and Jeju also have impressive Neolithic sites. Honestly, there are just so many! (laughs) And, of course, Gyeongbokgung Palace stands as the grandest surviving symbol of Confucian architecture.


Silla, Baekje, or Goryeo?

That’s so tough! I used to always say Silla because I was obsessed with their level of perfection in metalwork and goldsmithing. But the more I think about it, the more I appreciate Baekje.

All three dynasties traded with China, but you can really see it in Baekje’s tomb design. At the entrance of Baekje tombs, you find tomb-guardian beasts (Muryeong), a practice borrowed directly from Chinese burial traditions. In fact, some archaeologists believe one of the Baekje kings might have originally come from China based on the grave goods found inside his tomb.


Are there significant archaeological treasures located in North Korea?

There are so many fascinating sites in North Korea, and it’s a real shame we can’t access them. For example, the Goryeo Dynasty covered present-day North Korea, parts of China, and even small areas of Russia. In North Korea, you find tombs with vibrant wall paintings depicting the everyday life of the deceased—a style of tomb painting you just don't see in South Korea.

North Korea holds a wealth of history from the Goryeo, Goguryeo, and even Buyeo periods. It’s heartbreaking how restricted access is—even for researchers from countries that can travel there more easily, archaeological research is heavily limited. Kaesong, the ancient capital of Goryeo, is right near the border and filled with invaluable historical ruins. But who knows what condition they’re in or how the regime is preserving them? It’s hard to tell what state those sites are currently in.

korea scholarship experience



Seoul has several controversial colonial-era buildings—like the old City Hall, Seoul Station, or the structure once located behind Gyeongbokgung—built by the Japanese. Some advocate for their demolition, while others prefer preserving them. What’s your take?

In the case of Gyeongbokgung, the Japanese colonial government actually built their massive Capitol Building right inside the palace grounds. It wasn't until around the 1990s and 2000s that serious efforts were made to demolish those structures and restore the original palace grounds. Even recently, new restored sections have reopened to the public, similar to what’s been done at Jongmyo Shrine, where Confucian royal ancestral rituals were held.

When it comes to remaining colonial-era architecture, I think in many contexts, it’s worth keeping them as they are. It’s vital not to erase the physical traces of a historical era, no matter how painful it was. Erasing those buildings risks losing historical memory. While every case is different, I don't believe in wiping those places out completely. And if a building is demolished, there should at least be a clear plaque explaining what used to stand there. That history needs to be passed down to future generations.


Recently, local governments have favored modernizing old urban areas over preserving traditional neighborhoods. How do you view this? Is it inevitable, or can a balance be found?

I think it’s really unfortunate for Korea’s urban development. Construction politics can be tough anywhere, but even in mountainous areas where building is difficult, it’s possible to design liveable spaces that respect history. If a new residential tower is going up, it should at least harmonize with the local architecture, the neighborhood’s history, and the existing community. Besides, there’s so much real estate speculation and inflation—I mean, who can actually afford those modern apartments in Seoul?

It’s a serious issue that so many people want to live in other provinces but can’t because all the opportunities are concentrated in the capital. That stems partly from a lack of political will to encourage real estate developers to build elsewhere. These things might seem obvious, but to those prioritizing profit over people, they aren't.

What’s happening to these old villages and traditional districts in Seoul is deeply sad. So many neighborhoods have rich histories—some centered around specific artisan industries, others formed by post-war refugees or agricultural communities. Yet in 10 years, you know those places won't exist anymore, and their history will be forgotten. It breaks my heart, not just for the lost heritage, but for the residents whose lives and memories are traded away so casually.

Korea’s modern expansion was built on immense human sacrifice, and there has to be a limit to how much we sacrifice for the sake of "progress." There’s a widespread individualism in Korea right now where people only look out for their own property values—like wanting a brand-new apartment block built regardless of the impact on the local community or social fabric. Even in Seoul’s Green Belt, people use the land for urban farming and community projects, but it’s always temporary because developers will eventually clear it. It destroys the few spaces left where people can connect and build real community—because you can’t easily build that kind of social connection inside high-rise apartment towers.


You often see online comments comparing South Korean historical tourism unfavorably to China or Japan. What’s your perspective on Korean cultural tourism?

Korea is in a very complex position compared to China and Japan. China’s government heavily promotes state-focused, nationalist tourism. China also possesses the oldest history among the three, serving as the birthplace of many philosophical and religious movements that later spread to Korea and Japan. Furthermore, China didn't experience the exact same style of cultural devastation that Korea suffered during the Mongol invasions, foreign occupations, and the Japanese colonial period—where vast amounts of historical records, Buddhist temples, and royal palaces were burned to the ground. Compared to what once existed, very little survived. In that sense, Korea suffered the heaviest losses historically.

Japan, on the other hand, was an imperial power not just in Korea, but across China, the Philippines, and Taiwan. As a result, visitors today can admire 500-year-old wooden castles and temples that remained untouched by foreign invasion. Korea’s history of conflict put it at a major disadvantage in preserving physical heritage.

We also have to remember that Korea transitioned almost overnight from centuries-old dynasties to 20th-century modernization under Japanese colonial rule. Going directly from royal Confucian traditions to foreign occupation meant Korea had a much longer, more complicated path toward figuring out its own identity—defining what heritage means and rewriting its own narrative after the devastation of war.

Modern Korean historians are quite critical of the overly nationalist framing used in presenting modern history. Unfortunately, it’s often politicians rather than historians who commercialize history. The official narrative can feel very closed off, glossing over painful or complex topics like comfort women, dictatorship, and human rights. Korea actually has many incredible memory museums—perhaps more than other countries—but the overarching push often prioritizes economic gain over nuanced storytelling.

Compared to its neighbors, Korea’s global tourism push is relatively recent. There’s definitely room to grow in terms of historical authenticity and marketing hidden gems beyond the obvious highlights. Tourists eventually reach a point where they want to discover more than just K-pop and Korean dramas. Han Kang winning the Nobel Prize in Literature, for instance, showed the world that there’s immense global interest in Korean literature and art. I get messages all the time from people interested in traditional Korean textiles, crafts, and cuisine. Korea needs to open up and embrace policies that preserve both its tangible and intangible culture.

For example, master artisans spend their entire lives mastering a traditional dance or craft, but many of these art forms are dying out because the rigid hierarchical system makes it hard to pass the torch. Opening these apprenticeships to foreigners who are passionate about keeping the traditions alive would be amazing. I don't see anything wrong with that, but Korea isn't quite there yet.

By contrast, Japan’s massive tourism appeal is the result of a deliberate national strategy launched back in the late 1990s—they’re reaping the rewards of a 30-year plan. China’s domestic tourism is newer and more state-controlled, but because of its sheer geographical size, it offers endless historical destinations.

In Korea, there are incredible, lesser-known regions like Buyeo, Iksan, and Gongju. They’re smaller cities, but they pack immense historical value, gorgeous landscapes, and well-preserved fortresses. Local tourism definitely needs more support, but it all comes down to funding and vision. The goal should be inspiring visitors to fall in love with these places so they stay longer and return, rather than making brief day trips just because a location went viral on social media. Diversifying the tourism landscape is key—there are so many people interested in sports, fine arts, and history beyond pop culture.

estudiantes GKS


What are your thoughts on modern Korean cultural identity? Is it fading, or simply evolving?

Rather than fading, I’d call it a transformation. Every culture goes through it. Globalization pushes societies to open up in some ways while closing off in others. Unfortunately, under our current global mindset, people often value external influences over their own roots, which can feel like a loss.

Historically, modern Korea was heavily shaped by foreign powers that stepped in during crises—like the United States introducing its capitalist model. Korea has great cultural institutions that could lead the way in preserving heritage, but doing so effectively requires moving past rigid nationalism and allowing more progressive, creative ideas to take hold. It’s about showcasing culture as living heritage rather than just a commercial commodity.

It also comes down to how culture is taught from a young age. On one hand, Korean museums and cultural centers do a great job hosting free programs for kids, youth, and seniors to learn about their roots. But that needs to go deeper—it’s about understanding why these traditions are a source of pride beyond just aesthetics. There also needs to be more intergenerational dialogue. Because younger and older generations hold such different values today, there’s sometimes more apathy than a shared desire to protect their heritage. Building that intergenerational bridge is far more valuable than simply hosting institutional events.


How did your social media project get started?

I had never created digital content before! It actually started out of a bit of frustration with the type of Korea-related content I was seeing online. I got tired of seeing the same superficial topics over and over again. There’s nothing wrong with lighthearted content, but the market was already saturated with it.

After living in Korea for five years, gaining a deeper understanding of the language and culture, I felt compelled to share a different side of the country. I chose to create content in Spanish because, even today, there’s very little Korean literature or deep cultural commentary available in Spanish. People are only just beginning to publish Spanish-language books about Korea. I recently attended the launch of a book called Halmoni, which focuses on the comfort women during the Japanese colonial period.

We’re only now seeing the published work of Latin American scholars who have spent years studying in Korea. There are very few Latin American Koreanists—Mexico is probably the most advanced in that regard. But even on a smaller scale, accessible cultural content was lacking. I realized there were so many fascinating historical and cultural nuances worth sharing with the Spanish-speaking world.


How has the audience responded to your content?

Fortunately, the response has been wonderful! I’ve received so many kind messages from people thanking me for offering a fresh perspective. A lot of people interested in Korea were searching for something beyond beauty trends, pop music, and K-dramas. It’s super rewarding to know people find value in what I share.


What is your ultimate goal as a Korean archaeologist? What’s next for you?

I’m not sure if or when I’ll move back to Korea, but if I do, I’d love to pursue a Master’s degree in Anthropology to study modern Korean societal issues in depth. I previously took courses on modern Korea through El Colegio de México—their scholars are fantastic, and it completely expanded my perspective on Korean society. I chose anthropology because it’s the perfect tool for examining complex social dynamics.

In particular, I’d love to research the diaspora returning to Korea—specifically Latin American-born Koreans moving to South Korea for the first time. Also, a university in Chile recently launched a Master’s program in Korean Studies and is looking for professors with expertise in the field, so I’m hoping to teach a course on Korean Cultural Heritage there next year!


GKS experiencia

The conversation was incredibly warm and engaging, and time completely flew by! Although I was left with endless questions I would have loved to ask, I deeply appreciate the generosity and time Belén shared for this interview.

This chat was a powerful reminder that urbanism is never just about concrete and architecture; it is a living tapestry woven from social shifts, natural environments, and historical processes. Archaeology gives us the tools to grow as a society—it bridges our past with our present, teaching us that to build a meaningful future, we must first learn to honor and understand the footprints left behind.

I truly hope Belén’s projects and professional reach continue to cross borders, inspiring and enriching many more minds along the way. If you're curious to dive deeper into her unique perspective, make sure to follow her journey on Instagram: @belenencorea

July 24, 2026 No comments

 



After ringing the doorbell, an elderly man leans out from the third-floor balcony of a traditional building in Envigado, Colombia. He greets me from above with a wave of his hand and comes down as fast as he can to welcome me. His name is Hildebrando Vélez Velásquez. A Korean War veteran and a native of Betulia, Antioquia. Despite being 80 years old, Don Hildebrando is an energetic and cheerful man, with a proud bearing and a gentle face. From what he tells me, he is one of the few veterans who dares to speak openly about his experience in Korea. Born into a humble peasant family, he is the oldest of his brothers. After the war, he served as a clerk for a Municipal Court and, later, as a land registry clerk. He moved to Medellín and worked at Caribe Motors and Jardines de Montesacro as a self-taught administrator until the day of his retirement. Today, he has seven children, eleven grandchildren, and three great-grandchildren. He could be considered lucky; he is part of the minority that escaped illness and misery.

Upon entering his apartment, the first thing you see is a very paisa little living room with its wooden furniture and a few pieces of glassware. However, as we walk down a hallway, pictures begin to emerge that set it apart from the typical. A photograph of him wearing his military uniform, a framed piece of barbed wire from the 38th parallel, and several decorative medals for his participation in the war hang victoriously on a white wall. Don Hildebrando steps back, looking at each of the frames full of pride, and shares an anecdote from his time in Korea during and after the war. For me, it is a bit difficult to imagine the scene of hundreds of Colombians fighting for a country they barely knew, while whistling Julio Jaramillo songs on the banks of the Han River and fighting a silent battle against the harsh and unfamiliar Korean seasons. Finally, we sit down in the little living room and, with a smile on his lips, we talk.


korean war


Tell me, Don Hildebrando, were you drafted, or did you enlist? How old were you back then?

I joined the army on September 12, 1951. I was sixteen years old, and I had left home three days after volunteering for the army. In Colombia, the Political War between Liberals and Conservatives was happening, and that is why they sent me to the Junín Battalion Number 7 in Popayán. After that, they sent me to the jungles of Cauca, to a town called Belalcázar.


You hear stories that they used to round up young men in the streets or peasants fleeing the violence and take them off to war. How true is that?

There are stories about that from when the first battalion was formed. That they would grab people off the street and take them to the barracks and so on, but I don't know about that because I left after the first battalion they sent over there had already arrived. People do say what you're saying, but I don't know if it’s true or not. As far as I know, everyone was a volunteer soldier.


Both Korea and Colombia were going through a critical moment. Colombia with the era of La Violencia and Korea with its conflict against the North Koreans. Any similarities or differences between the two?

At that time, we were going through what they call La Violencia Política (The Political Violence), which was a war between Liberals and Conservatives. If you were a Liberal, they killed you for being a Liberal, and if you were a Conservative, they killed you for being a Conservative. So, they were horrific crimes. In the towns, they would bury four or five people every day. By the time we returned from Korea, things had already calmed down until it finally ended with the government of Rojas Pinilla.

However, in Korea, you didn't see the brutalities that were done here. Maybe an ambush where they caught people and shot them during combat, but not like here, where they crucified people, tore out their tongues and genitals and stuffed them into their mouths, and while they were still alive, cut off their heads. Just today, I was in the park in Envigado talking about that, and a man who used to work for the Antioquia Railway—a very sharp man—who controlled the train arrivals, was telling us that a train car once arrived in Medellín with thirty-seven headless bodies that had been killed over in Cisneros.


Were you trained before leaving for the war?

Three days after returning from Cauca was when they asked for volunteers for Korea, and I stepped forward. Those of us who volunteered were sent to Bogotá, to the Infantry School. There were two types of training there: close order drill and open order drill. Close order drill meant doing exercises, jogging, and things inside the barracks; open order drill meant going out into the field and doing combat simulations. We were stationed in Usaquén, where the infantry school was, and we would go out to places like La Calera and Chía.


What was the day you left for Korea like?

When we left Bogotá, there was a farewell ceremony. After that, they sent us by plane to Cartagena, and there we boarded the ship General Blatchford [General Balú]*. I belonged to the seventh replacement group, as there had been six others before us, not counting the first Battalion.


korean war


What was your journey like inside that ship?

We crossed the Panama Canal on the ship Balú, coasted along all of Central America, and arrived in San Francisco, California. We didn't get off the ship; they just dropped off some packages there, and we continued to the islands of Hawaii. From Hawaii to Japan, and from Japan to Pusan. In every port, we were welcomed with the national anthem—in Panama, in Honolulu, in Japan, everywhere.

Every day we would wake up at dawn; they would line us up on the deck and give us instruction either about the war or about weapons. Then, from eight to ten in the morning, it was a cleanup of the entire ship. I don't know how the ship got dirty in the middle of the sea, but as soon as we finished, the captain would walk by with a little piece of cotton, and that verriondo [stubborn son of a gun] knew exactly where we hadn't wiped, and that meant another hour of cleaning. And absolutely everyone cleaned, officers and all. The only ones who got out of it were the battalion commander and the second-in-command, but from captain on down, everyone did cleaning duty. Besides that, there were libraries, they showed us war movies, and the mess halls were very spacious with very good food. And there we would sit and tell jokes and this and that. We also held parties, and every day they put out a newspaper sharing the progress of the war.


Who was your commander?

First, there was General Douglas MacArthur, who commanded the troops in Korea. We belonged to the 7th Division… first we were the 24th Division, and later the 7th. First we were the 21st Regiment, and later, the 31st Regiment. They gave the orders to the Battalion. We didn't fight alongside Americans, Koreans, or Ethiopians; instead, the Battalion had its own assigned area. Colonel Alberto Ruiz Novoa was my commander, because first it was Commander Jaime Polanía Puyo, who was in charge of the first Battalion that went to Korea. They left in May of '51 from Buenaventura, and he had 1,060 men under his command.

After him, there was another commander, but he isn't mentioned anywhere because when the armistice was signed, that colonel crossed the barbed wire in Panmunjom and started taking pictures with other military personnel. The Chinese detained him there, and it caused a massive problem. They even addressed all of that at the negotiating table, and they released the guy because he played crazy—he wasn't crazy, but to get out of trouble, he played crazy. He was an embarrassment to the Colombia Battalion, and that’s why he isn't mentioned in any history book.


Did you know anything about the conflict over there?

We knew nothing. They mentioned Korea to us, but we didn't even know where that was. "And where is that? Is that a country?" In Bogotá, there was a young man named Ozuna who had been in the first battalion, and they had him there doing propaganda: saying that it wasn't bad, that Korea was very nice, that the war there wasn't how it was painted. Like they were trying to encourage people to go. So they did a lot of propaganda; they talked to us a lot about Japanese women and the islands of Hawaii being a paradise—and of course, one being so young! The Koreans said the same thing when the Colombians arrived in Pusan: "Colombia? Where is that country?" Because back then, there was no technology or telecommunications like there is now (laughs).


What was the first thing you saw and felt when you arrived in Pusan?

Arriving in Pusan and seeing that city completely destroyed and in the most terrifying poverty—it was horrible. Evening came, and there was an impressive flashing in the sky. I thought it was a storm, and they told me no, that that was the combat line and that was where we were heading. At that moment, I got goosebumps, and fear crept in, knowing that we could no longer turn back.


What was your impression of Korea when you first arrived?

Seeing a country completely different from your own, with very different customs, including the clothing and the Korean language… what was I going to understand! (laughs) I only know how to say annyonghaseyo [1] (laughs). When I arrived, all the buildings were completely destroyed, and hundreds of skeletal children were lying on cardboard, crying from hunger—the most terrifying thing in the world. The food is also very different… I am convinced that in Korea they eat a lot of herb soups and things like that because during the war they had to go into the woods to gather plants and roots because they had nothing else. Now, Korea has a history of about 5,000 years, so that probably comes from way back too, but surely the Korean War also influenced the food today. What meat were they going to eat! I don't know if there was ever cannibalism or something like that because of the hunger.


When you arrived in Korea, what was its political situation?

When I arrived, the government of Syngman Rhee was in Seoul. By then, Seoul had already been taken twice. The first time was when the North Koreans attacked on June 25th and reached the Naktong River. Then the Americans crossed the 38th parallel and pushed them all the way to the Yalu River (which is the border with China). Before they went in there, President Truman ordered MacArthur to stop because he didn't want to start a Third World War, and that was when he was dismissed. After him, they appointed another General Commander. But at that moment, Kim Il Sung asked China for help, and China counter-attacked, pushing MacArthur out of that part and taking Seoul again. After that, more United Nations troops arrived back up to the 38th parallel, and that’s where the combat line stayed.


What was your military training like in Korea?

When you arrived in Pusan—now they call it Busan, but before it was Pusan—you had to face even harder training. With the training here [in Colombia], you would finish at 8 or 10 at night, we would shower, go to bed, and two or three hours later they would blow the bugle and I’d have to get up again. About three months like that, with very, very heavy training. But in Korea, one of the training exercises was a one-day forced march. You would leave at six in the morning, and we would start along those roads between Pusan and Gyeongju, where we wouldn't run, but we would march like in a marathon. Every day we had to do that, and sometimes soldiers would faint; they would load them onto a truck, and as soon as they woke up, they were sent right back to the line. And they gave you your food on the march; there was no room to sit down for a moment to eat, but right there, running and eating.

Another training exercise was crossing over rivers on ropes; another was climbing up walls and jumping off into a puddle full of mud, and whoever fell into the mud had to climb back up. We would climb mountains and go down them with very heavy gear because we had the iron helmet and the backpack, which weighed almost 40 kilos [88 lbs]. But they had to make that training really tough so we would build endurance for combat. In Colombia, we used blank ammunition for training, but over there, it was real bullets. Digging trenches and passing through mined areas. Over there in Korea, they call mines "caza bobos" [booby traps], because the training they gave you for mines was so tough that anyone who let themselves get caught by one was a fool (bobo). You would enter a village, and they would teach you how to enter a little house, because maybe the door had something strange rigged to it and it would explode, or there was a dining table with hot food, but it was all poisoned.


What were your weapons?

Since we belonged to the United Nations army, under the command of the United States, they provided the weapons, and they were leftovers from World War II. The M1, the M1 carbine, the .30 and .50 caliber machine guns, the mortar, the 57 and 55 cannon, the bazooka, and the flamethrower, which they used up until the Vietnam War and no more after that. We used the flamethrower to flush the enemy out of the trenches, and they would come out all burned. We all had to know how to handle every single weapon that existed, because if the machine gunner was killed in combat, for example, it was your turn to go and operate it.


Did they use gases like in the First and Second World War?

I never had to put on a mask for anything. But they did use Napalm. They dropped that from airplanes, and it was a sticky liquid that caught fire when it hit the ground. That thing set entire forests and cities on fire. That is also banned now.


korean war


What was your first combat on Korean soil like?

One of the hills we had to defend was called Old Baldy, which changed hands 24 times because it was a strategic hill between the enemy lines. Nearby was White Horse, which is very well-known in the war because of the massive number of casualties on both sides. We fought in two major battles as such: the battle for Hill 180 on March 10, 1953, where 12 of our comrades were killed and 43 were wounded. Two days later, they sent us to Old Baldy from March 12 to March 23, where we were besieged by artillery. Back then, our food and water came in something called a C-7 ration, which was a little box with a number of small cans containing beans and other things to eat, and that was for a single meal. In those eleven days under siege, they only brought us hot food once. Up where we were, tanks would sometimes drive up with water, ammunition, and food, but they were forced back down by bombs. Because of that, we sometimes had to split one ration to last two or three days, and as for the canteen, we took tiny sips just to wet our tongues. We didn't even bathe from the moment we went in until it was over.

And well, in front of the trenches, they set up speakers and would tell us in Spanish: “Colombians, what are you doing here? You are not our enemies; you come from a very distant country. You are helping Yankee imperialism, why do you come to kill us here? You know we are not your enemies,” and whatnot. They say that during the eleven days of the siege of Old Baldy, more than 1,500 bombs fell on that hill, which is why the tanks were forced back down all the time. Then, on the afternoon of March 23, a full company of our own men arrived at the trenches to relieve us so we could rest while they took over the fight. So, we showed them all the trenches, where they could go out to patrol, the mortars, where the weapons were—everything, everything. That was exactly when the Chinese attacked, coming up that hill screaming. Around the 21st to the 23rd, we had been hearing strange noises underground, and it was the Chinese and North Koreans digging tunnels to attack us from below. We machine-gunned all those people coming up, and when they fell, others would come, and so on.

And around 10 at night, we ran out of ammunition, and it became hand-to-hand combat with bayonets. That’s when the tremendous number of dead began—bodies without heads, without arms, without legs, empty stomachs, pieces of flesh everywhere, with your uniform blackened by brains, flesh, dust, sweat, and everything. That battle lasted until the next day. It wasn't until after midnight that it slowly began to die down. And right at midnight, an explosive bomb blasted me into the air, fracturing three of my ribs, and I lost consciousness when I hit the ground. They dragged me out of there, and I later woke up in a hospital in Seoul. That night, 95 of our comrades were killed, 97 were severely wounded, others suffered minor injuries, and 30 were taken prisoner… Two days after the battle of Old Baldy, intelligence services reported that for every dead Colombian, there were six dead Chinese. In that night's battle, they found 500 dead Chinese.

I'm telling you, it was utter chaos, the most terrifying thing. Madness takes over you in the middle of a combat like that, and you become an entity, a killing machine. There is no fear there, just pure adrenaline. It’s that rage of seeing your comrades fall, so you try to kill as many enemies as you can. Sadly, one says these things because it’s a war, but they have families and children too, and it’s very sad to say it, but you feel rage killing all those people. And those who froze up were killed faster, because you put all that training you received to work—you dive, you crawl, and you move from side to side. Now, anyone who let terror paralyze them at that moment was sure to be killed.


In dramas and movies, they show soldiers drinking alcohol to take away the fear.

They didn't give us anything, though they might have slipped something into our food… Before, one didn't know anything, but after the war, many stories are told, and regarding staying calm, they say they gave us some drugs. What was true was that they kept the North Koreans and the Chinese doped up on opium; so they would enter combat screaming like wild savages, playing drums and bugles, all drugged up.


What was your relationship with the allied countries like? Did you fight together?

We had encounters with the Americans, but playing soccer, because they organized tournaments between nations. Sometimes we played against them, or against the French, Thais, or Ethiopians. Also, communication between the other nations and us went through the commander; therefore, he had five or six interpreters who spoke Spanish, English, and all those languages. Those interpreters were schoolteachers, university professors, and people like that. We talked to them a lot, but just to chat. The Koreans taught us a few words, but we didn't dare say anything because we didn't know what they were teaching us, and it was bound to be vulgarities. We also taught them things. There is an anecdote: In '53, General Régulo Gaitán went from Colombia to inspect the troops; the whole battalion lined up, and he gave a speech. When he finished, an officer told him, "Look, the little Korean boy over there wants to greet you." He was a little Korean boy about six years old who stayed around the battalion because they gave him food. So the little Korean boy stood at attention with a military salute and said: "Mi General, yo soy puto, liberal y macho" [General, I am a hustler, a Liberal, and a real man] (laughs). Everyone froze, and when the general finally burst out laughing, everyone relaxed, and that’s why we never used the words they taught us in Korean.


They say that United Nations military personnel killed civilians.


It's true. At the time when the North Koreans invaded South Korea, they handed out ration booklets to the people so they could eat, and those who accepted them got a food supply. Later, when the United States reclaimed the territory, they executed many of those people, calling them traitors. But traitors for what? They did it out of necessity, because they had to eat somehow, even if they didn't agree with the ideology of the North Koreans and Chinese. There are videos out there where they massacre entire families and then shoot them.


What did the enemy lines do with hostages?


It often depended on which nation had taken them prisoner. We have the case of the first prisoner the Colombia Battalion captured, and they almost made him sick [from kindness]: they gave him food constantly, cigarettes, they treated him like a king, and the prisoner was happy. Now, the treatment North Korea gave to United Nations prisoners, and the treatment the United Nations gave to theirs, was very different, because the UN didn't treat them that badly. For instance, prisoners were given two meals a day consisting only of rice, but since they were already used to that, it wasn't a punishment. Also, without abusing them, they were kept working—digging ditches, building shacks and tearing them down again, moving dirt from one side to fill a hole in another, and so on.

However, in North Korea, they took prisoners and psychologically abused them. They tried to brainwash them; they would slaughter a pig and tell them, "We're going to throw you a party today," and when everyone was excited that they were going to eat, they would gather all that meat and take it away. Other times, they would put them through tremendous forced marches lasting for days. There were cases where prisoners held by the United Nations did not want to return to North Korea, and since they had spies among the prisoners, the North Koreans had a list with the names of those people. At the negotiating table, the Koreans demanded the prisoners back, but the United Nations didn't want to hand them over because those people didn't want to return, and that caused a huge problem. In the end, they gave in, and all those Koreans who returned to the north were executed.

korean war

Speaking now about adapting to the country, what did you eat? Who provided the food?

When we were in the rear guard, we ate American food: turkey, chicken, and different meats. For breakfast, they would make us pancakes with jam, cocoa, bread, and fruit, and afterward, they gave us cigarettes and chewing gum. I believe that inside that gum they would slip what you mentioned—something to keep you calm so you wouldn't feel fear. Also in the rear guard, when you wanted to have a few beers with a comrade, there was a little shop run by a soldier who would sell you a box of canned beer. But first, we had to ask for permission to drink that box with so-and-so. They also provided our toiletries; they already knew everyone's sizes and would hand out a fresh, clean change of pants and underwear.


Coming from the "City of Eternal Spring," how did you handle the seasons in Korea?

We arrived in mid-October of '52. There were 217 soldiers in that replacement group, and by then, autumn was already ending. Imagine us way up in those Korean mountains, where the average temperature below zero was thirty degrees. And these blizzards from Siberia would sweep down through those mountains, dropping the temperature to forty degrees below zero. That was brutal for us because we weren't used to it—some of us couldn't even stand the cold in Santa Elena! Back then in Korea, the temperature would reach thirty degrees below zero, but nowadays it only gets to about 13 or 14 degrees below zero.We had a winter uniform. First, during normal weather, we wore a thick khaki drill uniform. Then in the winter, it was a special suit with special boots, thick wool gloves, and a leather pair over them to be able to grip the rifle. In the summer, we bathed a lot in those Korean creeks because there was almost always a creek near the camps.


What news did you get from your family?

A letter took about twenty days to arrive from Colombia because it went to the US, from the US to Japan, and from Japan to Korea. We also wrote letters through the liaison office in Tokyo. You would write it and hand it to the commander or whoever was in charge of that; they would sort them, send them to Japan to the liaison office where there was a representative from Colombia, and they would follow the same route back to Colombia. Reading letters from your family out there in Korea made you cry because you feel an immense nostalgia, even more so when you are stuck in a war where you could be killed at any moment, thinking about your family's anguish... Very hard, very hard. And you tried to downplay the war situation when you wrote your replies back home. Either way, that correspondence went through Tokyo, and they would open and read them there to make sure no spy was sending out information. That was highly controlled.


Did you visit Japan? Any anecdotes?

In Yokohama, several of us comrades met up in a large library, and at the entrance, there were some Japanese soldiers who invited us inside. While I was walking through it, a Japanese man approached me speaking Spanish and said, "Look, the young lady over there wants to invite you to her house, if you'll accept the invitation. But you have to wait an hour for her because she leaves work at 4:00 PM." And I said sure (laughs). When the time came, she would talk to me and I would talk to her, she would laugh and I would laugh at the fact that we couldn't understand a single word (laughs). We got into one of those little carts pulled by a Japanese man and rode through the streets of Yokohama to a part called Naka-ku. I was just about to walk inside when the girl told me to take off my shoes, because I didn't know you had to take them off. And I thought, "Oh, thank goodness I showered," because soldiers usually have an impressive case of stinky feet (pecueca) (laughs).When we went in, I didn't see chairs, tables, or anything—just cushions to sit on the floor. The girl showed me how to sit there and then called her Papa-san and Mama-san. They talked and talked and laughed, and I laughed along at whatever they were saying. Then they brought out the food and gave me chopsticks, and since I didn't know how to use them, they gave me a wooden spoon. A little while after eating, two other sisters arrived and asked me who I wanted to sleeping [sleep] with. Since I was well-mannered, I said with the one who had invited me (laughs), and just like in The Arabian Nights, what happened, happened.Then, a little over a month later, a letter reached me in Korea saying that her period hadn't come, that she hadn't been with anyone but me, and this and that. Later on, when I went to Japan on leave, I met the little boy, who turned out a little bit slant-eyed, but just a bit. When I returned to Colombia, I left her my home address. However, I had so many issues with my father that when he went to the post office to collect all the mail, he wouldn't tell me anything and would just rip them up, so I never heard from her again. During a ceremony, I had the chance to meet the director of El Colombiano newspaper, María Mercedes Martínez, and I told her this story. She told me she had some connections and someone who could look into it, but it was very difficult because I only knew her as Michiko, but didn't know "Michiko what." Besides, Yokohama changed completely, and all those little alleys and villages have disappeared now. She tried, but found nothing. That is the problem with all wars—soldiers leave a lot of kids behind.

korean war

Japanese or Korean women?

(laughs) Now you've really put me on the spot! (laughs) I love them both so much; they are both very beautiful.


You had a story with a Japanese woman. Any stories with a Korean woman?

During the war, no. We would go out to Seoul and do our "little things" over there, but we paid for it. And many times, when we were in the rear guard, we would see the Papa-sans and Mama-sans giving their daughters to the soldiers to get money or food. It was like a forced prostitution just to be able to eat.


What was the day like when they agreed to the armistice between South and North Korea?

They spent about two years on that. Panmunjom was the last village where they finalized it, because before that it was somewhere else, but I can't remember the name. When the treaty was signed, it was total cheering and dancing; the enemy would come out and hug the friend, and so on. However, that didn't mean the war was over, because there were still stories here and there—not full combat, but encounters where one or two people would get killed. And once that ended, there was a lot of patrolling to make sure the enemy wouldn't sneak in.


What did you feel upon returning from Korea and seeing that you helped bring about all the development they have today?

Pride for having helped, and pride in how they treat you in Korea. Because over there, they go out of their way for you, for the veteran. And since Colombia was the only South and Central American country that helped Korea—because from the Americas, there was only the United States, which sent Puerto Ricans as well—the Koreans are very grateful for that.


Why do you think information about the war hasn't been taught to the younger generations?

That has been due to neglect by the Colombian government and the Ministry of Education, because it is an important part of Colombia's history. The Korean War was the only true international war Colombia ever had, because the conflict with Peru in 1932 was just a border clash. That is one of the things I say in my lectures at schools and universities; it makes you sad to hear so many people who don't even know that Colombia sent troops to a foreign war. It's very sad. In an event that the Premium Plaza mall hosts called "Colombia Patria Mía" [Colombia My Homeland], they set up a space for Korean War veterans, and we briefly explain the war to people there.


It seems Colombia is not the only country that has overlooked the Korean War. A lot is written about the Vietnam War and World War II, but nothing about the Korean War.

The Korean War has a title: "The Forgotten War." In all the books, they talk about the "forgotten war," and that is the Korean War. I don't know why it was forgotten worldwide, considering it was highly important in the sense that it saved the majority of Asian countries from being overtaken by communism. So it shouldn't be the forgotten war, even less so when there were about five million casualties. But if you talk to people about the Vietnam War, most know what the Vietnam War or the world wars were, but the Korean War is the one mentioned the least.


Do you have any lasting trauma or after-effects from the war?

I used to have after-effects from the war, what they call war psychosis [PTSD]. I spent a year sick. I would work and do my things normally, but at night I would get these terrifying nightmares; I would crawl off the mattress, entrench myself under the bed, and scream: "The Chinese are coming! Place the machine guns! Sons of bitches, they killed my friend!" And the next day, I would have to go to the pharmacy to buy something for my nerves. In December, when they would set off fireworks, I would get shaky and it would trigger me. But not anymore; now all I have left is to tell the story.


korean war

Has the government provided any aid to the veterans? I have read that many of them have fallen into destitution and madness.

In 1989, a law was passed stating that those who had completed their military service here in Colombia and then went to Korea would be granted the rank of sergeant second class, with all the perks, promotions, and so on. That went through the Senate and the House of Representatives; they approved it, and when it got to the president for his signature, he said, "I am not signing this because sending those people over there was just a whim of Laureano Gómez." So, that was lost.

Then came Law 683 of 2001, which granted two minimum wages, but look at the conditions: it was for those who had been in the conflict with Peru and those from Korea who were living in destitution. How can the government think that a person who was in the 1932 war is going to be destitute! If they are still alive, it's a miracle in itself. And to those who were destitute, they gave two minimum wages. A lot of people received that because they would buy a fake Sisbén [social economic status score], and without actually needing that money, without suffering any hardships, they took the opportunity away from those who truly needed it.

It is said that during the presidency of Rojas Pinilla, the United States government gave three.two million dollars—which was a lot of money back then—to be distributed equally among the combatants. In other words, each of us was entitled to a fortune, and that money ended up going to the Military Club in Bogotá and to Tolemaida. But that was vox populi [common knowledge], and where there's smoke, there's fire. Korea, on the other hand, is helping with education and this and that for as many generations as there are. They take grandchildren and children to Korea and provide them with an education. But since all of that is managed in Bogotá, it stays there, and the provinces don't get anything.


How many of you are left?

Out of the 5,100 of us who went to Korea… I have always said that there are fewer than 300 of us left, but talking around with the military attaché, they said there are 600 still alive. But by now, most of the veterans are very sick and very old. Hardly any minors went; I was one of the few, so just imagine.


To finish up, how would you describe the Koreans before and after the war?

In the way they treat the countries that helped them. After the war, they help many nations through that organization KOICA. The Korean military has also traveled to many countries, to Africa and places like that, teaching people how to work and leading medical and artistic missions. During the Korean War, there was a lot of mistrust between North and South Koreans. We couldn't perceive it because they are the same race and look very similar—you see a Korean in Seoul and you see one in Pyongyang and they look the same—so what we felt was that there was a lot of wariness back then, not against the troops from other countries, but among themselves. They were very distrustful.


[1] Hello or good morning in Korean

June 20, 2026 No comments
Cheongnyangni station


Hello, citizens! Today, I'm here to introduce you the Jeonnong-dong neighborhood, one of the few areas in Seoul with a relevance that has changed as dramatically as a rollercoaster ride. Initially, it was a land of agricultural importance, but it quickly transformed into the first focal point of the city's railway progress. This is the site of the Cheongnyangni Station, which connects Seoul with the eastern part of the country, and the first line of Seoul's subway system. 

During the 1960s and 70s, this area was an epicenter of commerce until the city's rapid growth gradually reduce its importance, making it a neighborhood seemingly frozen in time. In the last decade, the government has invested significant efforts in modernizing the sector, yet its streets still retain an aura of authenticity.

The name of the neighborhood stems from the Joseon Dynasty, when these lands were designated for the King’s personal cultivation and named "Jeonnong" (전농). The grains produced here were sent to Jongmyo Shrine to be used in ancestral rites. After the Japanese occupation, the Japanese renamed this sector Jeonong-jeong within Gyeongseong-bu (the old name for Seoul). However, after liberation in 1945, the neighborhood was annexed to Dongdaemun and its name was changed to the current Jeonnong-dong.

Cheongnyangni station in 1970

Cheongnyangni Station, the heart of Jeonnong-dong 


The story of Jeonnong-dong is, in many ways, the very history of South Korea's transportation. The first urban railway line departed from Cheongnyangni Station in 1974, which soon evolved into the current Seoul Subway Line 1. Even now, Cheongnyangni Station is a mega transfer station with six lines passing through it: Subway Line 1, Suin-Bundang Line, Gyeongwon Line, Gyeongchun Line, Gyeongui-Jungang Line, Jungang Line, and the KTX Gangneung Line.

According to records, the first tram began operating in the neighborhood in 1899. Passengers would get off at Cheongnyangni and take the tram to access the city wall. After the liberation from the Japanese in 1945, trams lost competitiveness with the arrival of buses and cars. In 1966, Mayor Kim Hyun-Ok championed the expansion of the city's vehicular and railway systems, and consequently, on November 30, 1968, the Cheongnyangni tram ceased operations.

tram seoul
First tram in Seoul


Following the tram's closure, the first underground subway line was inaugurated on August 15, 1974, with the goal of connecting Cheongnyangni Station with Seoul Station. This line is now the longest in the city, connecting the city of Suwon in the south and Uijeongbu in the north within a single region. The creation of this line had a huge impact on the country's economy and industry. Property prices around the subway stations skyrocketed, and the city’s structure and hierarchy were reorganized. 

In the city's 1986 development plan, Jeonnong-dong was highlighted as a key sector for development along with Yeongdeungpo, Sinchon, and Miari. 

cheongnyangni outskirts
Smalls pocket meeting points are currently scattered throughout the neighborhood

Soon, Jeonnong-dong became a trendy spot. Following the construction of the Lotte Department Store—or "the clock tower," as it was known in 1994—the neighborhood filled with fast-food restaurants like KFC and Burger King. The area was a source of pride, representing the first modern urban landscape for those arriving in Seoul by train from the outskirts. The station plaza also became a place for student gatherings, large demonstrations, and protests.

At the time of the visit, the plaza no longer seems to be a gathering point for young people, but rather a passageway or connection point between the station and nearby bus and subway lines. Some groups of seniors gather to chat and promote religion. However, the department store remains quite busy as it has a direct connection to the station's interior, generating a constant flow of travelers.

Jeonnong-dong, a Neighborhood full of controversy

Cheongnyangni 588: Seoul's largest red-light district

One of the reasons why the development of Jeonnong-dong was postponed until recently was the various controversies that began to emerge after its peak in popularity. One of them was the rise and expansion of one of the city's largest red-light districts, known as "Cheongnyangni 588." 

red light district seoul
Cheongnyangni 588 by google map archives

As occurred in many major world capitals in the 19th century, the convergence of socioeconomic factors around Cheongnyangni Station provided the perfect environment for the emergence of a red-light district. Moreover, during the Korean War, the station served as a transport center for South Korean troops, attracting women who "catered" to the soldiers. After the war ended, the area's economic boom, coupled with the dismantling of the red-light district in Seodaemun, led to the number of brothels serving lonely men traveling long distances exceeding 200. 

red light seoul
Cheongnyangni 588 in Febreruary, 1983


The Cheongnyangni 588 red-light district (the origin of its name is unknown) consisted of a consecutive row of glass storefronts where women were displayed as if they were mannequins or 'Barbies in a box'. The displays were wide on the sides but narrow at the back and had a small door leading to a rear section with rooms on both sides called "beehives." Some middle-aged women would recruit single men in the station plaza to lure them into the businesses. Although people knew what was happening, they turned a blind eye, allowing the district to grow with considerable freedom. 

The demolition of the district occurred in 2004 to make way for the "Lotte Castle Sky-L65" project. This is a 4-tower, 65-story mixed-use building that stands as a landmark in the northeast of Seoul. However, the stigma has been so significant that it has affected apartment prices, leading the Dongdaemun City Hall to push for changing the neighborhood's name to "Cheongnyang-dong" to shed its "red-light district" image. 

Although there are currently no remnants of the red-light district in the neighborhood, it is common to see a look of disgust on people's faces when the sector is named. It is often seen as a dangerous neighborhood, full of contentious seniors or individuals with mental illnesses. In the alleys surrounding Jeonnong-dong, there are still a few small saunas where the elderly gather to chat or drink soju. 

Small saunas can still be found scattered around the station.

An overdue renovation

Several chaebol groups (large industrial conglomerates) attempted to get involved in the area's development but without much success. The first was Hanhwa in 1993, which planned to convert the plaza in front of the station into a shopping mall but faced stiff opposition from the city council and local merchants. By 1997, renovation plans for the area were halted due to the IMF financial crisis. 

On the way to Seoul University, there is a row of trendy shops for both young people and elderly, as well as traditional and young style restaurants. This shows the generational difference in the neighborhood. 

The scarcity of resources and labor extended into the early millennium, prioritizing other important projects like the construction of the KTX at Seoul Station. Renovation projects restarted in 2004 but suffered many delays due to the simultaneous construction of the double-track electrification projects for the Gyeongchun and Jungang Lines. The postponements, which extended for over 30 years, resulted in unexpected "abandonment" by the local government and rejection from citizens in other Seoul neighborhoods. 

In the back, The Sky Castle is being built

Since August 2010, the renovation of the station and its adjacent tracks began, and the Sky Castle project was built in an attempt to renew its image. For the coming years, the construction of 4 new lines is expected to increase the sector's attractiveness: the Great Train Express (GTX-B) line (from Songdo to Maseok); the GTX-C line (from Deokjeong to Suwon); the Myeonmok line (from Cheongnyangni to Sinnae-dong); and the Gangbuk Cross-sectional line (from Cheongnyangni to Mokdong).     



The University of Seoul, the brain on Jeonnong-dong

In the center of Jeonnong-dong is the University of Seoul (서울시립대학교), the only point in the neighborhood where citizens can gather, enjoy nature, and get away from the hustle and bustle of the trains. This university began as a public agricultural school in 1918 under the supervision of the Governor-General of Korea and obtained its name, the Metropolitan University of Seoul, in 1973.

Initially, the university only had four departments: horticulture, veterinary medicine, agricultural engineering, and sericulture. However, the university is currently renowned for its programs in urban planning, transportation, civil engineering, and the environment. It is recognized for its participation in various urban and architectural development projects in the city. 

Seoul's universities usually do not have modern buildings or grand architectural designs; however, the University of Seoul has become a reference point. Although it is not a large campus compared to other public universities, it is always undergoing constant change and renovation of its buildings.

One of the most emblematic buildings is the Faculty of Law and Sports. It is a large, glass-fronted building without a main entrance, which breaks spatial barriers while allowing fluid communication between the interior and exterior through a spacious plaza. The wooden platform in this plaza, conceived as a communication space, is now used as a rest area for both students and local residents. This modern building creates an interesting contrast with an adjoining brick building where art or scientific exhibitions are now held. This type of contrast can be appreciated throughout the Metropolitan University of Seoul campus. 

Future Convergence Building


Another outstanding building is the recently inaugurated "Future Convergence Building," whose design is similar to the Amore Pacific building in Samgakji. The avant-garde design showcases the university's new vision in its centennial year, in addition to providing more open public spaces for the local community. This building is definitely the new face of the university and has recovered lost meeting spaces within the campus. 

Baebongsan, the lungs of Jeonnong-dong

Behind the Metropolitan University of Seoul, you can walk to Baebongsan (배봉산). It is a small, nature-filled mountain with a trail of approximately 9 km. Originally, the mountain reached the Dapsimni neighborhood, but urban development cut it into three parts.

In the past, many royal tombs were located there before being relocated, which is why people used to bow to the mountain when passing by. It is a beautiful route surrounded by trees and perfect for running. Along the 9 km, there are badminton courts, a rabbit farm, climbing walls, an artificial waterfall, reading spaces, outdoor gyms, and some stone markers indicating the locations of the ancient tombs of the kings. There are also some exhibited remains of an old fortress that surrounded the mountain.

Urban Development in Jeonnong-dong

The neighborhood is mainly made up of single-family homes, low-rise buildings with one-room flats for students, some run-down hanok (traditional Korean houses), the "Remian Class T" apartment complex, some modern commercial premises and traditional Korean food establishments, and mixed-use premises.

The visual horizon consists of low-rise buildings with student “one rooms” and traditional single-family homes.


In the neighborhood, you can find these types of old hanoks that have been slightly modified. 


The houses were built and improved over time, which resulted in the creation of narrow alleys and intersections. The population is mostly University of Seoul students and elderly residents, creating a stark contrast between the new and the old in the neighborhood.

There are also newer single-family homes.

The diversity of the houses creates intricate alleyways.

Some areas and facilities show more neglect than others, especially those near the train station. The neighborhood also has a small, old market where people gather and buy groceries.

Local market entrance

Around the market there are many street vendors, traditional restaurants, and various shops that cater to the needs of the elderly. 


Healing urban scars beyond the surface

The history of Jeonnong-dong serves as a powerful reminder that a city is more than just its infrastructure; it is a living hub of memories, both glorious and painful. As we have seen, historical circumstances can leave deep scars on a neighborhood’s reputation, often overshadowing its immense potential as a socio-economic and cultural center and hiding a social problem is not the same as solving it.

For decades, the shadow of the red-light district stunted the growth of a sector that is the gateway to eastern Korea. Today, the arrival of luxury skyscrapers like Lotte Castle Sky-L65 attempts to "sanitize" the area’s image. But urban revitalization should not be about erasing the past to comfort the present. When we demolish a neighborhood to cover its history, we risk displacing the very soul of the community. 

This struggle is not unique to Seoul. A striking comparison can be found in King’s Cross, London. Much like Jeonnong-dong, King’s Cross was once a massive industrial and transportation hub that fell into extreme decay. By the 1980s and 90s, it had become notorious for crime, poverty, and a visible red-light district.

Instead of purely "erasing" its gritty history with generic glass boxes, London opted for a mix of heritage preservation and social integration. They repurposed old Victorian industrial buildings (like the Coal Drops Yard) into vibrant public spaces. While gentrification remains a challenge there, the lesson is clear: true revitalization happens when you honor the neighborhood's dynamics.

Analizing the Jeonnong-dong development I ask myself: Are we building a neighborhood for the people who are already there, or are we just trying to make the past invisible?

Inclusive urbanism doesn't mean keeping the "bad," but rather healing the wounds through education, public space, and a respect for the local rhythm. Only then can Cheongnyangni station stop being a place people merely "pass through" and become a place where they truly want to stay. What do you think? 


👉I recommend checking out this blog post to see more pictures of Cheongnyangni 588 before it was demolished.  
  
December 17, 2025 No comments
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